Come join the discussion about tools, projects, builds, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! And the alternate minimal shear to meet code are rated much below ply panels required for exterior walls: Like I said I am buying, but the home inspection is next week and hopefully he can shed some light. I am completely new. That’s an additional load on the trusses that may have been compensated for by the kitchen wall (despite not being load bearing). Jeff Whitley Trusses, unless a special girder truss (which accepts the loads of attached trusses), have no interior load bearing walls. Actually a quick way to determine if the wall is bearing, is to cut hole at the top to see if it has one or two top plates. Houses and trusses are not designed soley according to a text book or a code book, they are designed based on many parameters and the individual concerns of an engineer. Hi. Drywall alone is minimally structural due to warp and breakage compared to the new "T" bars. The span seems to be about 30 feet. JavaScript is disabled. He said the chances the wall is load bearing are very small to none because the bottom plate of a fink truss is designed to be in tension not compression. Mechanical equipment should be supported by the top chords of the trusses and not bear down directly on the ceiling joist or bottom chord of the truss no matter the design unless specifically designed in the truss itself. My question is this. Typically engineered truss design can clear span using 2x4 top and bottom cord until the span reaches about 40’. This also provides an avenue to install vibration isolators if the equipment warrants it. If cost is a factor, and it usually is, I would put my money in the header beam, and not in the engineers pocket. I learn something new every day on this forum, thanks to people like you and Daniel who keep us DIYers in check. If they are, what's holding them up in the living room (assuming remodeling hasn't happened in that home)? The total length of the roof trusses a … What proves that a wall isn’t load bearing? I am just worried that if I take the wall out, with the weight of the indoor unit, the truss would not support that weight. http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrp/fplrp439.pdf, http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publications/by-title/insulating-on-the-outside/, http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par012.htm, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. I just found some the other day that were missing support at one area during a predrywall. The kitchen is about 13' and the Living Room is about 17'. Helping You to Do It Yourself! If you still have them then you’re golden! And make sure they check the load paths for shear and wind uplift. A forum community dedicated to Do it yourself-ers and home improvement enthusiasts. Best answer so far. I want to take out the wal between the dining room and kitchen. In the attic I have a indoor heating unit that goes with the outdoor heatpump. A forum community dedicated to Do it yourself-ers and home improvement enthusiasts. Identifying if the wall is load bearing is an easy procedure. Removing A Possible Load Bearing Wall Under Truss? If the trusses are all the same you should be good to go, when they make a truss tri bearing the design change would be obvious. The engineering drawings if you didn’t toss them contains all the relative information to accomplish what you are wanting to do. Although I guess it's possible to have a header through habit of framers and not need it. Hey all. Bob - What complicates your situation is the heat pump /air handler in the attic. Concerns about vibration must be addressed with isolation devices, not by omitting required supports. I'm in the process of purchasing a house in Bryan, TX. If it a perpendicular and some identical trusses dont have that mid support than it is probably not load bearing. Here is a question - The trusses are 2x4s with webbing (similar to the image posted by Mr. Bradley Toye). if the wall is parallel to the trusses it is probably not load bearing. The house is 1 story and built in 1986. But with a little investigation you can do some checking to get a better understanding of the roof structure. I've attached a couple of pics from the attic. My question is this. The cost of the truss will be one of the major concerns. Nary a problem since. I want to remove a load bearing wall and replace it with a beam. Powered by Discourse, best viewed with JavaScript enabled. Lateral bracing must be provided, typically straps running at a 45° angle from each corner of the unit to rigid framing members and tight enough to prevent horizontal movement. The kitchen wall is about 16' across with about a 5' opening between the LV and Kit (framed like bulkhead, but not sure if it has a header across), then where the kit wall ends there is a 7' span across the foyer with no bulkhead. Could we get a picture of the other side of center post in attic? Most codes would request that similar to this; [size=3]All mechanical equipment must be supported against vertical and horizontal movement in accordance with the engineering provisions of the Building Code. :) A unistrut is usually installed to the bottom of the top chords of the rafter and threaded rods down to support the equipment. I want to take out the wal between the dining room and kitchen. Bearing walls that are carrying a roof load must transfer that load to a footing. A wood truss is designed to free span the width of the home without intermediate support. If you trusses are all 2x4 then you have additional problems, they were not designed to carry the HVAC at all!!! Now if they are just 2x4 trusses, I would want an engineer to check it out. www.wwtbi.com. My house was built in 1983. Vince, They seem to be identical, they extend beyond the kitchen exterior wall and include the covered front porch, I can see the soffitt vents at the end. I disagree with everyone. For example, does that wall just stop and then the area past it (along the same path) become a big open living room with no bulkead or beam in sight? I had it checked out because I had thought about taking a wall out. BUT the HVAC being in the attic complicates matters a bit. Yep = need to contact a structural engineer. I have had to install drywall (both sides on a long wall to get the shear) where the SE called out for it- in the house center. I was hopeful when I saw the trusses. House is a split foyer, 25 x 40. :shock: Get a PE or if you know where the Trusses came from they truss co can take a look at it for you in most cases at no charge!! But does a single top plate necessarily mean that a wall isn’t load bearing? If they are 2X6 trusses in a 10 foot span, they should be okay. Thanks. I appreciate the help. I agree that two plates doesn’t necessarily mean that a wall is loading bearing. After closing, I will remove the sheetrock around the bulkhead to see about a header. If the trusses are all the same you should be good to go, when they make a truss tri bearing the design change would be obvious. I appreciate the help. It was a little chewed up looking and didn't read it, hopefully that has some info on the trusses. With a stick built roof you can easily hide the new beam above the ceiling but you are faced with trusses that need engineered modifications to hide the beam. Truss roofs are typically designed to use some interior walls as mid span support to save on costs associated with making the truss larger/stronger. For applications such as yours, I would rather see the load near the center so that as overloading occurs, deflection becomes a clear indicator of a problem, whereas if loaded near the ends, a faster failure could occur in overload condition. Of course, taping the joints, panel orientation, and fastener connection all have an influence on its racking strength. if it is a load bearing wall it will have two top plates. Do yourself a huge favor, hire a good Structural Engineer to draw up the plans & be sure you get a permit to do the work. A double top plate does not always mean the wall is load bearing. If so, then that tells me those trusses aren't relying on the kitchen wall. You must be a big fan of the good old band Molly Hatchet, because if you are even thinking about doing this major work without an engineer and the proper permits then you are Flirting With Disaster. This unit is just about in the middle of the house also. Assume that a wall is load bearing and prove that it isn’t (not the other way around). Its easier on the framer to make all walls the same so that alone is no good for determining anything.
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