With two Velcro straps and a widely adjustable tongue, the Vapor V is easy to get on and off. The Vapors also felt pretty soft underfoot, and this lack of rigidity contributed to the challenges we faced when edging. They are also available in sizes 35 to 43 in the women’s specific version. You can read the whole Scarpa Vapor Lace review from http://www.epictv.com/photo/article/climbing/scarpa-vapor-lace-long-term-test. The buckles also pressed into our feet on hand cracks, causing pain. All trademarks property of their respective owners The volume is still low and the asymmetrical shape and slightly down turned toe give that balance of comfort and precision. So all I can say here is the jury is out on whether they will begin to smell. The fit of the new version is relatively tight compared to previous models even though the shoe is built on the same FR last. My toes are still crimped at the end but not as much as I usually prefer. Time will tell! SRP £130 and available direct from Scarpa UK. Their aggressive shape does not make for the best crack climbing shoe, though the Vapors are soft enough to work in a pinch. Strangely, when Scarpa contacted us to ask if we would review the latest 2019 version (version three) there was no 7.5, the choice was just a size 7 or 8. GearLab is reader-supported. We've weeded through dozens of climbing shoes to select to... How to Choose the Perfect Pair of Women's Rock Climbing Shoes. Heel hooking in the Vapor V on another tough warm up in Siurana, Spain. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, Received average scores in all rating metrics without impressing us too much in any particular realm. It took some getting used to for us to trust the Scarpa Vapor V on tiny edges such as this. I can’t even begin to count the amount of money I’ve wasted buyng climbing shoes online only to find they don’t fit right!! Keen on a pair of these and in a U.K. 8 in approach/mountain boots. Many Thanks our resoling options are pretty basic here. Learn how your comment data is processed. The microfibre upper replaces the leather of the two previous models and maybe this is the future as manufacturers have to find ways of further reducing carbon footprints and having a sustainable offer to more climate change savvy consumers. They have a rubberised ridge at the end which locates and fits your thumb for faster and more precision when closing the shoe up. Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear. products and offer an honest and independent review of the item. Scarpa Instincts vs Scarpa Vapor V. Hi all, Having some trouble deciding whether to go with the Instincts VS or the Vapor V. I'm mostly a boulderer who prefers slabby/flat walls, but I do also dabble in sport and top rope (indoors and outdoors), as well as overhung bouldering and … i wear a size 40 in those and a 40.5 in my more comfy scarpas. By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement. For footwork-intensive climbing like slabs or technical faces, we would recommend something with a bit more sensitivity. There is more padding and it is more breathable making wearing them much more comfortable over prolonged periods such as multi pitch climbing. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. When I reviewed the Scarpa Chimera I noted that the shoes began to smell (I mercifully do not suffer from smelly feet) after a time. I have however, have previous form with microfibre uppers. I do use a size 8 for indoor climbing and bouldering circuits so I am used to the fit. How can we improve GearLab? I suppose it depends on how hard you are planning to climb in them. Change ). will often keep the sample after reviewing it for both hygiene and safety ( Log Out / No change in the sole rubber, it’s still Vibram XS Edge which I have found perfectly acceptable for the climbing I use them for which is bouldering, indoor climbing, trad and sport climbing. Precise, versatile, and a best seller – the Vapor V opens 5.15 performance to the masses, with an asymmetric and slightly downturned fit and Bi-Tension randing. My preferred size being a U.K. 7.5 for the best fit. Some good improvements and a more climate change friendly upper makes the 2019 Scarpa Vapour V a great all round climbing shoe. It’s a good compromise between comfort and support. Hi Simon, my normal trainer/approach shoe size in UK8. Got feedback? The synthetic upper, which is a new addition to the updated Vapor, doesn't provide much wiggle room, so don't bank on these puppies stretching out at all. I suppose if you can afford it buy both and see how you get on with them. sales. The Vapor V's soles didn't provide the best sensitivity, which was surprising since the Vapors have the same XS Grip2 rubber that almost every other top shoe has. That said, make sure they fit, since the sizing can be a bit tricky. I would say the last is very similar to the older versions and the toe shape is the same and although they came up tight for the test pair they have stretch a little since then. Their downturned shape excels in the realm of steep climbing, and they also have a softness underfoot that, if sized bigger, make these shoes great for long days. Maybe this is a compromise I will have to make if I want to remain as sustainable as I can be and there is no doubt that it offers a good ethical option for climbers. hi, i need to replace my vapours soon. EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. They are my shoe of choice and I use them all the time. All that aside, the Vapor V is well padded, yet still breathable, making them great for long days and warm weather. ill have to order from abroad so trying to get some idea of the fit of the new shoes. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers that accept sample To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our. Their downturned shape excels in the realm of steep climbing, and they also have a softness underfoot that, if sized bigger, make these shoes great for long days. The reviewer Matt Groom, EpicTV Climbing editor says on Long Term review: "I went for a 8.5 UK size, with my street shoe normally a 9 UK. i completely understand! We found it hard to fit the large toe box of the Vapor V into small pockets. I’ve also used the Vapour lace ups and I’ve tried them in all different sizes. To help you though my trainer size is usually a size UK8 and I fit my vapours size UK7.5 for crucial sends and UK8 for comfy and training. The softness that was an issue (when it came to edging) ended up being an advantage in the realm of crack climbing; when jamming thin finger cracks, these shoes impressed us. The redesigned velcro straps (which is what the V stands for) do make closure a little better. email: support@epictv.com, Company information: Banana Fingers T/A (trading as) EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United KingdomVAT GB930689110. With the arrival of the new Arpia (in both a men’s and women’s version), Scarpa is taking the lead in addressing this intermediate-performance shoe vacuum. im very reluctant to order online but theres no importer into new zealand so ive no choice unless i try to find an older model online. If the Vapor V fits your foot comfortably, they could be a great investment. I’ve recently begun doing this for environmental reasons and found it perfectly good for my climbing – resoles have come on a long way since my first ‘Streaky” resoles in the mid 80’s. This, I feel, is a definite improvement on the previous models. Disclaimer – CGR reviewers are never I found the heel fit quite surprising as it wasn’t as snug as I was expecting, although this might just be my foot shape." Further sacristy of fit is provided using an elasticated strip across the tongue, this would be particularly useful if you have wider feet. I like the improved heel and the velcro closure straps but I’m a little apprehensive about the microfibre upper, but then one of my personal 2019 aims is to shop more sustainably so the Scarpa Vapour V 2019 will definitely help with reducing my reliance on animal products. ( Log Out / So I’ve tested a U.K. size 8 for this review. Though the bulkiness of the toe box was initially an issue when it came to climbing pockets, we got used to the shape over time and were able to toe into pockets just fine. Maybe it’s the new microfibre upper that is replacing the leather uppers of previous models that helps keeps it’s shape better. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Matt Groom, EpicTV Climbing editor says on Long Term review: "I went for a 8.5 UK size, with my street shoe normally a 9 UK. seems they size up a bit smaller from your review. paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate The adjustability of the tongue was important at first, as the shoes were a tight fit, and the Velcro straps made it straightforward to slip the heels off at belays or in between goes. thanks. just wanted to know what your experience with the older verses new model for your own feet. The result? ( Log Out / Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Initially, the Vapor V was painful for our wide-footed lead tester. Initially, it was unnerving to stand on small edges and smears since we had a hard time feeling the rock beneath our toes; as they broke in, the Vapors began to feel better. The Scarpa Vapor V is best used as a sport climbing, bouldering, or gym climbing shoe. The Scarpa Vapour V 2019 are a good improvement on the previous model. The Scarpa Vapour V 2019 are a good improvement on the previous model. A precaution to those considering buying them, or any Scarpa model - these shoes tend to run small, so going up a half size or full size is not a bad idea. Let’s look at the Arpia's construction so we can better understand how it hits this much-coveted sweet spot of comfort and performance. I often use a size UK7.5 in Scarpa climbing shoes and sometimes even a UK7 for a performance fit. Although looking at the Scarpa website just now it looks as if half sizes are an option. Hope that helps, We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. The Scarpa Vapor V is an all-round performance climbing shoe designed to break conventions and be a "performance shoe with instant comfort".
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